Health Clearances and Responsible Breeding

Just a little over 6 years ago, the canine genome was completely assembled; this achievement made huge strides in the ability of veterinarians and researchers to study canine genetic diseases and traits. However, one group has been making an impact on genetic diseases for over 40 years; the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals (OFA) was founded in 1966 by John Olin. Mr. Olin was an avid sportsman and when hip dysplasia began to have a negative impact on his retrievers, he organized a meeting with veterinarians and breed clubs, which eventually led to the formation of the OFA. Today the OFA is not only concerned with hip dysplasia, but the organization serves virtually all breeds of dogs and cats with genetic disease databases to provide breeders with the health screening information they need to improve the genetic health of their breed.

The OFA encourages responsible breeding by providing health clearances and genetic databases for dogs and cats; read the article on the OFA and the Role of Canine Health Databases here. How is this information used successfully? Well, for example, say you have a champion Labrador Retriever that you would like to breed, and because he is a Labrador Retriever, there are certain genetic diseases that he is predisposed to because they are common in the breed; they would be hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia, certain eye diseases (progressive retinal atrophy, cataracts), central nuclear myopathy (CNM), and exercise intolerance and collapse (EIC). Now these are just the common diseases that are considered by many to be the minimum health clearances to assure healthy, unaffected offspring. Depending on how thorough you want to be, you would have your dog tested for all or some of these diseases by a veterinarian or veterinary specialist. If the results of these tests are acceptable and you find a suitable mate with similar acceptable test results, then you are helping to ensure the offspring from this mating will likely be unaffected; this is what responsible breeding is about. These health clearances will also tell a prospective puppy buyer what they can expect with a pup from this litter. Anyone who has ever had a pet with a terrible genetic disease can attest to how invaluable these health clearances are to the prospective puppy buyer.

Click here to listen to an audio podcast by Dr. Greg Keller, Chief of Veterinary Services with the Orthopedic Foundation For Animals (OFA), where he discusses the OFA process for evaluating radiographs and the differences between OFA evaluations and those of PennHip.

For more information about OFA testing for genetic diseases, visit the OFA website, or talk to your veterinarian.

To find breed specific information on genetic diseases, visit the Canine Inherited Disorders Database.

Nail Trimmers = Tazmanian Devil

Fido puts his paw on you to say "I need to go outside and potty", before you process that information, the sensation of his long, sharp toe-nails scratching your leg takes over...ouch! You go to the tool drawer and pull out the nail trimmers and boom, Fido turns into a tazmanian devil; it takes everyone in the house to hold him down and get those nails trimmed up. Weeks later, same thing, finally, you take him to the veterinarian to have it done but he's horrible there, too. The veterinarian says, we'll need to sedate Fido, next time, for his nail trim, he was biting everyone and he really doesn't like to have it done. Far too many of us can relate to that little scenario.

I recently read an article by Dr. Sophia Yin, DVM, MS about training your pet to enjoy a nail trim. It's really an article about counter-conditioning your pet's behavior, specifically his/her loathsome outbursts during nail-trimming. It's really good, so I'm gonna let you read it and watch the video. Even if your pet isn't bad during nail-trims, it's still a good read, the concepts she's using here can be extrapolated to other negative behaviors as well.

Find the article and video here.

Dr. Sophia Yin is a veterinary behaviorist and currently sees behavior house calls, works at San Francisco Veterinary Specialists (www.SFVS.net), writes for several veterinary and popular magazines and has consulted for several zoos. She also lectures and teaches workshops internationally on animal behavior and low stress handling and has served as a behavior expert for shows such as Dogs 101 on Animal Planet. She is also on the executive board for the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior, the American Association of Feline Practitioners (AAFP) Handling Guidelines Committee, and the American Humane Association (AHA) Animal Behavior and Training Advisory Committee.

One thing that the article and video don't mention, that I'd like to add, is that although the dog in the video was counter-conditioned in about 4 minutes, your dog may require a little more patience and training to overcome his anxiety or negative behavior. The principles she uses here are excellent, but I'd say take your time and your dog will learn to love his nail trims too.

Crate Training

For all you new puppy owners out there, here's some insight on how to quickly and easily establish some ground rules and house train your new pup.

Proper behavior begins with the proper training and should start as soon as you bring your new pup home. If we allow bad or unacceptable behavior now, the pup will expect that same lenience in the future. It may be cute right now to have a little pup chewing and playing with your shoestrings, jumping up on you when they want to be loved, or "nibbling" on your fingers. BUT, are you still going to think those actions are "cute" when your pup is full grown! If you don't want him to do it as a mature dog, don't allow it while he is a pup! To be fair to the dog, just set those guidelines from the start and never allow those types of behaviors, then you'll never have to correct him for it later.

One of the best things you can do, for both you and your new pup, is to crate train him/her. Crate training is a simple method of housebreaking that also keeps your dog out of harm's way when you're not around. Crate training utilizes a "pet carrier", or wire/plastic cage. We just use the word "crate" or "kennel" due to the negative context that the word cage creates. We don't want to put them in a cage! We want them to feel comfortable in their kennel or crate. Dogs derive a feeling of security from being in their crates; remember dogs are pack animals that live in dens (small, cave-like dwellings), so it's their natural instict to sleep in there.

We don't expect them to live in their crate all the time. It should be his own little home; he'll rest in it, sleep in it, travel in it, and possibly even eat in it. When he is not doing those things in his crate, he will be with the rest of his "pack" - his people. Providing a crate gives a dog a safe place (as he grows and learns) from such hazards as electrical cords, poisons and owner's belongings.

Introducing the crate
In order to be successful with crate training your dog, you must be consistent and attentive to his response. You definitely want his first experience with his crate to be a pleasant one...Place the crate on the floor and allow him to explore it. Don't force him into the crate, wait until he has had a chance to thoroughly sniff the crate; then place a couple of small treats or his favorite toy just inside the crate. When he enters the crate to retrieve the treat or toy, give him lots of praise. If he starts to exit the crate, stop all praise. Repeat this process several times, tossing the treat or toy further into the crate, while leaving the crate door open.

Next, toss in a couple of small treats or favorite toy to the rear of the crate as you are saying "kennel" or "crate" (any word can be used for this command as long as it is used consistently). Once the pup enters the crate to retrieve the treat, give lots of praise and close the crate door. If, after patiently trying to lure the pup into the crate, you find he is still reluctant, wait until time for his breakfast or dinner and place his food bowl in the crate for twenty minutes with the crate door open. If he has not eaten within the twenty minutes, take up the food and try again at his next meal time. It will not hurt the pup to miss this meal. Do not give the pup any treats between meals. Again, place the food bowl in the crate for twenty minutes. The food bowl should be placed in the front of the crate until the first success. Then move the bowl to the back of the crate. Once the pup has successfully gone into the crate for his meal, you may close the door while is eating.

After the pup is comfortable going into the crate, gradually extend the length of time he is left in the crate. If the dog whines, ignore it. This behavior should soon stop. If the dog continues whining or barking, gruffly in a deep voice, give the command "Quiet" ("hush", "No Noise"), and then squirt the dog with a spray bottle filled with water. This should cause the dog to stop whining or barking. As soon as the dog stops whining or barking, tell him "Good, quiet*, good". (*Use the command word you have chosen). The dog will soon learn that he must stop whining or he will receive a correction. If none of these methods are successful in stopping the whining or barking, place the crate in a dark, quiet room and ignore it, he will soon realize that he is safe but whining and crying will get him nowhere. The worst and most common mistake people make during crate training is to allow the pup to cry, whine, or bark for a long period of time, and then "rescue him" by removing him from the crate and allowing the pup to sleep in the bed or some other area. Do not take the pup out of the crate if he is whining or barking to get out; by doing so, we are teaching the pup that if and only if he whines for 3 hours as loudly as he can, we will let him out. The barking or whining behavior is just anxiety from the fear that you will leave him in the crate indefinitely; we know that isn't so, but he doesn't, so until he learns that you WILL come back and let him out, he will be a little anxious about it. Some pups need more time to adjust than others and some will try your patience, but trust me, the whining will stop, you just have to be more stubborn than the dog. Our goal is to teach the pup to love his crate and when needed, to enter it on command and rest quietly there until we allow him out.

House training
MORNING: As soon as either you or the dog awakens in the morning, you should take him outside to eliminate. (What is it? You say he has already made a mess in his crate? That's okay, don't scold him, this will not be habit, he merely had an accident and he will soon learn to hold it as he becomes accustomed to our routine. I always say "he doesn't mind pottying in your house, but he doesn't want to potty in his house". And remember, it gets easier as the pup matures.) At the first whine or bark in the morning, you should open the crate door and say "Let's go outside" in a very matter of fact voice. Either carry a small pup (attaching a leash along the way) or leash-lead a larger pup/dog to the exact spot you want him to eliminate. Stand still in that one spot and tell him to "Spot". (This command can be any term you want to use {ie. "potty"} but must be used each and every time you want the dog to eliminate. This is very important.) Remember, this is not a walk, it is a "business trip". When the dog begins to eliminate, praise quietly (Go-o-o-d dog). Allow sufficient time for urination and defecation. Move the leash back and forth to get a non-complying dog to move if he is just standing and staring at you. It is extremely important for you to use a leash and be there to praise the dog at least for the first couple of weeks when he begins to eliminate. (After 2-3 weeks, your dog should be able to go "spot" on his own.) Do not allow the dog to turn this "business" trip into play time! After the dog has eliminated, return inside, ending the "business" trip. It is at this time that you can then take the dog back outside to go for a walk, to play or to allow him to explore a fenced yard. Don’t mix "business" with pleasure or play time; by keeping his elimination trips seperate, it clearly defines his elimination time.

DAYTIME: The dog's activities should be monitored throughout the day when you or a family member is home. When the dog sniffs, walks in circles or appears anxious, he should be leash-led to "the spot" you have decided will be his elimination area. Successful housebreaking depends on a quick response to such clues. If constant supervision (keeping BOTH eyes on him) is not possible, put him in the crate. If the dog should have an accident in the house, the area needs to be cleaned immediately with an odor eliminator or a solution of vinegar and water. This should prevent him from returning to the accident area and eliminating in the future. The dog should never be punished for soiling in the house unless you catch the dog in the act. If you do catch him in the act, tell him "NO" very firmly and immediately take him outside to "the spot".

If the dog must be left alone for a few hours, he should be taken out for elimination immediately prior to your departure, then placed in the crate. When placing the dog in the crate and as you are leaving, be very matter of fact. If the dog gets the idea that you are upset or sad because he is in the crate, you will soon see that the dog does not like the crate. Dogs "read" our emotions and body language. Show a positive attitude about crate training, visits to the vet and all other aspects of obedience training and your dog will reflect that same attitude. Having a radio playing, some safe toys and a blanket or crate pad should be sufficient to relieve most dog's anxiety of being left alone. If you have a dog who eats his toys or bedding, it is best that you leave those items out of the crate until he can be trusted. When returning home, you should, in a matter of fact manner, immediately get the dog out of the crate (again using your key words such as "Let's go outside") and leash lead the dog out to his "spot". Again, make this a "business" trip.

BEDTIME: The dog needs to go out one last time before being placed in the crate for the night. The crate should be moved into the bedroom first as the mere presence of the owner will be comforting. Some pups will be comforted by placing an old shirt or blanket, with your scent on it, in the crate. Again, if the dog should whine or bark, do not yell. Tell the dog "Quiet"* ("hush"*, "no noise*"), then, if necessary, squirt with a spray bottle. This should cause the dog to stop whining or barking. As soon as the dog stops whining or barking, tell him "good, quiet*, good". The dog should follow your example and call it a day.

Keep in mind that a pup's bladder is not as large as a mature dog's. If, during the first few weeks, your puppy wakes during the night and signals you (usually by whining or barking!) that he needs to go, drag yourself out of bed and take him out!! This will help to teach the puppy to alert you to his elimination needs. While you are outside (still half asleep and wondering why in the world you ever decided to get a dog!), try to keep a positive attitude, remembering that it won't be long until his bladder will be large enough to "make it" through the night! Once the pup has eliminated, return to your nice comfortable bed and try to get back to sleep! :) By the way, since you know the pup just eliminated outside, do not allow the dog to whine or bark to get your attention that he thinks it is time for you to get up and play! This is the perfect time to reinforce the "Quiet" command. In my experience, by 12-14 weeks of age most puppies should be able to hold their bladder through the night. So don't create a habit of taking him out at 2am!

If you've made it past the first few weeks and your pup is entering his crate, on command, lyes quitely while in the crate, and holds his bladder until released to go to his "spot" to eliminate, then congratulations, you've successfully crate trained your pup! You and he will be thankful that all your effort has paid off.

Lumpies and Bumpies

Skin tumors on dogs are very common; most of the time they are benign, but about 1/3 of them can be malignant (cancerous). Tumors can appear in many shapes and forms, and easily be confused with other benign masses that can arise on the skin of dogs too; such as insect bites, abscesses, granulomas, hematomas, cysts, and swelling. Some of the non-cancerous masses may require prompt veterinary treatment, such as abscesses or hematomas. So whenever you see a lump or bump on your dog, it's best to have it looked at by your veterinarian before waiting too long. Here's a couple of cases that are pretty interesting:

"Lucy" the Bassett Hound

The patient in the picture above, a bassett hound named "Lucy", presented to our clinic with a large tumor growing from the skin on top of her back. This tumor had obviously been allowed to grow to an exceptionally large mass before being presented for evaluation and treatment...the owner had been hesitant to have her anesthetized; however, the mass ruptured and began to drain, which prompted the visit and subsequent surgery. The sheer size of the tumor was impressive, as you can see, but was no real problem for surgery. The tumor was removed (see picture to right), the skin closed back together quite well, and "Lucy" had no further problems with it. The pathology report, from the submitted sample of this tumor, came back as a trichoepithelioma; which is basically a cystic hair follicle. Hard to believe a mass that large all started as one little tiny clogged up hair follicle.

"Trip" the Labrador Retriever

More recently, I saw one of my regular patients, "Trip", for what seemed to be a rather benign aging process. "Trip" was a very nice black Labrador that was well taken care of, and had been a patient of ours for a while. His owner brought him in with concerns that he may have had gingival hyperplasia, which was causing him to lick his gums frequently and be uncomfortable when eating. Gingival hyperplasia is typically a benign process of aging that is very common in some breeds (bulldogs especially); it's basically an overgrowth of gum tissue that can often appear to envelope or partially cover the teeth, and in many cases it really doesn't require any treatment. It did, in fact, appear to be gingival hyperplasia; however, I had concerns that it could also potentially be a more serious (possibly cancerous) process and mentioned that malignant melanoma was especially common in that area of the mouth and was a concern. "Trip's" owner agreed that we should definitely try to biopsy and de-bulk the gum tissue to give him comfort, and then send samples to the lab for analysis; we did and, unfortunately, the lab report stated that "Trip" had malignant melanoma and that his prognosis for survival was poor.

"Trip" was referred to Mississippi State University College of Veterinary Medicine for an oncology consult; the specialists at MSU agreed that without radical excision of the soft palate and gum tissue (which would have resulted in terrible disfigurement to his face), along with radiation to the area, the prognosis for "Trip" was quite poor. "Trip's" owners and I agreed that it may be best for everyone, including "Trip", to choose a more conservative approach, using medications to keep him as comfortable as possible, and simply enjoy his company as best we can while he has some good days left. A radical surgery and extensive treatments such as those recommended for "Trip's" cancer would not only be quite expensive (approaching $10,000-$15,000), but also quite difficult for the patient, as well.

After "Trip's" initial diagnosis and subsequent biopsy procedure, his cancer continued to grow and spread at a phenomenal rate; in 3 week's time, it had already quadrupled in size and was spreading to his sinus cavity. By the fifth week, his owners could no longer stand to watch his cancer take over his body; he had become quite uncomfortable with his mouth, had difficulty eating and breathing through his nose and his condition was beginning to deteriorate. "Trip's" owners, at that time, decided that it was best to no longer allow him to suffer and elected for euthanasia. I agreed that it was the best decision.

"Trip" was no ordinary dog; his presence had been a comfort to his owners during a difficult time, and so his life had a very special meaning to them. "Trip" was a fun-loving, affectionate animal that will be sorely missed; his life had great meaning but despite being a little shortened by a terrible cancer, his life was a noble one.

So, as you can see, lumps and bumps aren't always what they seem...a large, oozing, and unsightly mass that turns out to be an overgrown cystic hair follicle, and a seemingly benign enlargement of gum tissue that started as somewhat of a nuisance became a horrible, unstoppable, deadly cancer.

In memory of "Trip".

Spaying and Neutering

Like most veterinarians, I recommend all puppies and kittens be spayed and neutered by 6 months of age. Why should we spay and neuter our pets, you ask? This will hopefully give you that answer, and some insight regarding common problems associated with intact pets.

Prevent Pet Overpopulation
It has been estimated that over 4 million unwanted pets are relinquished to shelters each year; many of these animals are euthanized (put-down) to make room for more incoming pets. There are approximately 5,000 shelters in the United States and most, if not all, are at capacity or approaching capacity. Obviously, from these numbers, it is clear that pet overpopulation is a real problem in the United States. By being a responsible pet owner and having your pet spayed or neutered, you can help prevent pet overpopulation and needless loss of life for unwanted pets. For more information on pet shelters and adopting a pet, read our earlier blog entry about it here.

Healthier Pet
Breast cancer (a.k.a. - mammary gland adenocarcinoma, or mammary tumors – similar to human breast cancer) is the most common type of cancer affecting female dogs that have not been spayed. It is the third most common tumor of female cats. This cancer is not only very unsightly but can be malignant (spread to other organs) and cause considerable pain and discomfort and even death to the pet. One common, and often heard, myth is that pet owners should allow their pet to go through at least one heat cycle before spaying. This would put your pet at risk for breast cancer; the risk of breast cancer is almost eliminated in dogs that are spayed before their first heat cycle. If she is spayed before her first heat cycle, the risk of developing mammary tumors is less than 1%. It is 8% for the dog spayed after one heat, and 26% in dogs spayed after their second heat. It is believed that the elimination or reduction of estrogen and/or progesterone causes the lowering of incidence of the cancer in dogs that have been spayed. In addition to cancer, other problems your pet won’t have to face after being spayed are: the risk of uterine infection, c-section, mastitis, or other complications associated with pregnancy, whelping, or raising a litter.

Testicular tumors are one of the most common cancers of intact (un-neutered) male dogs. Dogs that have one or both testicles that are not descended (a problem called cryptorchidism) are 13 times more likely to have testicular tumors. Testicular tumors may metastasize to the abdomen, lung, thymus and brain.

The prostate gland in the male dog can have multiple problems: non-cancerous enlargement, obstruction, cysts, bacterial infection, abscess, and cancer. The influence of testosterone (produced by the testicles) is the inciting factor behind these problems. Prostate cancer is by far the worst of these, and is much more aggressive than human prostate cancer, spreading very aggressively to other organs quite rapidly, often leading to death. By neutering your male dog at or before 6 months of age, you can prevent most, if not all, of these problems from occurring.

Behavior
Spraying, marking, roaming, and fighting are common behavioral problems that are all associated with reproductive hormones. By spaying or neutering your pet before he or she reaches sexual maturity (6 months for most pets), you will virtually eliminate these unwanted behaviors and have an all-around better pet.

Much attention has been paid to dog attacks and aggressive behavior in dogs. There are many variables that go into the aggressive behavior of pets. However, reproductive hormones are the foundation for much of the aggressive behavior seen in pets. Eighty-five percent of dog-bites are from intact (not spayed or neutered) dogs. By simply spaying or neutering your pet at an early age, you can prevent most aggressive behavior from developing.

Surgery
Some pet owners are anxious about having any surgery performed on their pet. Obviously, this anxiety is understandable. However, it should be known that spaying/neutering your pet as a puppy or kitten is a much simpler procedure. The complication rate is lower and the recovery rate is faster and easier while your pet is young. As veterinarians, we perform thousands of spay/neuter procedures each year. It, quite possibly, could be the most common procedure performed by most veterinarians; as such, you can rest assured that your veterinarian is adept at the procedure.

Tips For Taking Your Cat To The Veterinarian

Here's a really good video with some tips for when your kitty needs to come see us at the veterinary clinic. Cats generally don't see the veterinarian as often as dogs, and many times it's because they can be difficult or become stressed about the visit. This video will give you some tips about how to keep your kitty calm and get safely to the veterinarian and back home without too much stress.

This video produced by the CATalyst Council, a non-profit group dedicated to raising the level of care and welfare of cats by cat owners.

To find more information about the CATalyst Council, or to enjoy other cool stuff (e-newsletters, more videos, cat health guidelines, and more) visit http://www.catalystcouncil.org/

Late Summer Dangers

Man, it's been hot! Too hot to do anything outside, but as Fall begins and the temperatures start to moderate a little, we'll be itching to get back outside and play with our pals. Just wanted to make you aware of a few things to watch for as you venture back into the outdoors with your pets.

First of all, the heat is still pretty oppressive right now but mornings and evenings are starting to let up a little, so try to have your four-legged friends do most of their playing during those times to avoid heat stress. Of course we've talked about the dangers of high temperatures before, but in case you missed it, click here.

In late summer, one thing we see commonly are eye injuries due to pets playing and running through the tall weeds and grasses. The stems and seed heads can scratch the cornea and cause lacerations and ulcerations that can easily result in severe vision loss if not treated promptly and appropriately by your veterinarian. We even find grass seeds that are stuck in the eyelids, causing constant pain and irritation. So after playing in the tall weeds and grasses, make sure you take a look at your pets eyes to check for these problems. Excessive tearing or eye drainage, excessive squinting of the eye, redness, or swelling of the eye could indicate a problem and should be evaluated promptly by your veterinarian. Waiting a few days for it to get better is not recommended with eye injuries, typically withholding treatment for even a day or two can lead to a devastating eye infection.

Fleas and ticks are always a problem, in our area, but ticks seem to really love the hot, dry weather of late summer; so be on the lookout for these critters. Ticks can carry a multitude of diseases, some of which can infect humans as well as the dog and cat. I am currently treating a canine patient for Ehrlichia, a rickettsial (bacterial-like) disease that ticks carry, which causes bleeding, lethargy, anorexia, fever, weight loss, trouble breathing, and other more severe abnormalities. Ticks can also carry other similar diseases that can cause deadly illness in the dog.

Keeping a good flea and tick prevention on your dog will definitely help protect him from the creepie crawlies and the diseases they carry. Flea and tick prevention products are quite numerous these days; it seems you can purchase them almost anywhere now. These products, when used correctly, work great to keep your pet parasite free; however, if not applied correctly, they can be harmful, too. When buying over-the-counter flea and tick products, there seldom is someone that can give expert advice on how to apply the product and which product(s) will be safe for your pet...so, see your veterinarian to purchase these products; your veterinarian will know what products work best for your pet and how to correctly and safely use them.

I guess it wouldn't be right to leave out the snakes and gators...they're still out there, if you're in the right area. Be careful when allowing dogs to swim in or around the Pearl River, the alligators are still very active; snakes too. Often, alligators and snakes can be undetected until its too late, so just avoid those areas, if possible. The alligators are obviously deadly for a dog; snakebites are often very treatable, though.

Just a few words of caution to keep your four-legged pals protected and safe while venturing outdoors during the late summer/early fall.

Cell Phone Etiquette

This is something that has bothered me for quite a while. Most people seem to know the common courtesies that everyone has come to expect; however, some just seem to totally disregard those courtesies...You see it everywhere now, people with their phone glued to their ear while shopping, driving, walking their pet, even while in the doctor's office. Don't get me wrong, I enjoy the freedom and connectivity that my cell phone provides, however, I would never even dream of wasting your time by using my phone during your visit to my clinic. Sure, I may text or browse the internet while in the waiting room at my physician's office, but I turn it off before even entering the room. It doesn't seem to bother some people, though, to use their phone during their office visit with me. These people don't seem to realize that, by using their cell phone during a visit with their veterinarian or doctor, it's not only rude and very distracting to the doctor, but it takes valuable time away from the health of their pet or someone else's. In some instances, this can be very detrimental to the patient.

Apparantly I'm not alone, here's a medical journal article that surveyed neurologists at a 2006 convention. It found that in addition to appointment no-shows and poor patient compliance, cell phone use was among the most highly rated as bothersome patient behaviors that may have deleterious effects on patient care. And here's an exerpt from another veterinarian's blog about the subject...Dr. Eric Barchas, DVM writes..."I was working my way through a busy schedule at the office. I entered an exam room for my next appointment and found that my patient’s owner was on his cell phone. I waited a minute or two for him to hang up, but he continued his conversation. Since there were several other pets and people waiting, and since the man did not appear to be in a hurry, I left the room and saw the patient who was next in line. After that, I returned to the first room. The man was mad. Actually, he was beyond mad. He was incensed that I had skipped him. I thought my actions made sense but he didn’t see it my way. He left the office in a huff."

Dr. Barchas goes on to say that he mentioned that story to a client, who had a story of her own...the client had a friend who was a highly sought-after oncologist. This oncologist was very good and patients would commonly wait months to get an appointment. One day a particularly cell-chatty patient came in, the doctor entered the room and the patient continues her cell-conversation. The oncologist was very diligent to spend equal time with each patient and always kept on schedule; her policy on patient cell phone use was to wait in the room while her patient was on the phone, and if the patient used all of their appointment time talking on their cell, then she would leave the room on-time and charge the patient for an office visit. If the patient wanted to re-schedule, it often meant waiting months for a new appointment that could potentially save their life.

Dr. Barchas writes, "Over the years I have tried many tricks to deal with cell phone addicts. My current favorite is to enter the exam room and begin the appointment no matter what...I start talking to them and asking questions as if I had their undivided attention. This forces them into a choice: talk to the person whose time they’re paying for, or talk to their friend. It’s a difficult choice for many people...but there is nothing wrong with being unconnected every now and then. Using your cell phones in doctors’ offices is not just rude. It costs you and your pet time and attention from someone who is trying to help you."

I have to agree with my colleagues, I mean, it seems most people understand that using your phone during a visit with someone, whose time you're paying for, just makes no sense; but for those who are addicted to the devices, I suppose it's difficult to put it down. Nevertheless, please use some discretion and have the courtesy to refrain from using your cell while in the room with your doctor or your pet's doctor.

Your Pet's Food Could Pose a Health Risk

There have been six pet food recalls issued this year by manufacturers because of possible salmonella contamination, according to the Food and Drug Administration. However, the FDA says there have been no reported salmonella illnesses linked to pet food since an outbreak in 2006-08. A study about the 2006-2008 outbreak was published online Monday by the medical journal Pediatrics, which stated that the outbreak caused sickness in 79 people in 21 states, between 2006 and 2008. Almost half of the victims were children aged 2 and younger. The outbreak was caused by salmonella bacteria found in several brands of dry dog and cat food, including Pedigree and Special Kitty, all linked back to the Mars Petcare US production plant in Pennsylvania.

Casey Barton Behravesh, the author of the report from the federal Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, says "Dry pet foods are an under-recognized source of salmonella infections in humans, and it's likely other illnesses since then were unknowingly caused by tainted pet food". Behravesh went on to say, "While young children were most often affected, there's no evidence that they got sick by eating pet food. They probably became infected by touching affected animals or dirty pet food dishes, and then putting their hands in their mouths".

"It's a tough thing because pets are not symptomatic like we are and can shed this [salmonella] for up to 10 to 12 weeks" in their feces, said Dr. Peter Richel, chief of pediatrics at Northern Westchester Hospital in Mt. Kisco, N.Y. "It is a little disconcerting to hear that otherwise benign-appearing pet food can pose any risk at all."

Symptoms of salmonellosis reported during the outbreak included bloody diarrhea and fever. Although 11 people were reportedly hospitalized during the outbreak, there were no deaths reported. Investigators found salmonella bacteria in stool samples from pets who ate the tainted food but no pets were reported to develop symptoms related to salmonella.

According to Jill Franks, company regulatory director of Mars Pet Care US, the company subsequently recalled pet food made at the plant during the outbreak and improved training and testing practices at its 17 U.S. plants after the investigation failed to reveal any underlying cause of the contamination. Heating of the food during the manufacturing process generally kills salmonella but Behravesh said contamination may have occurred during a later process.

"The public should not be unduly worried about pet food as a source of salmonella. Companies are very vigilant and in rare occasions when it occurs, products are pulled off the market," says Duane Ekedahl, president of the Pet Food Institute.

The authors of the study advise pediatricians to ask about contact with pets when evaluating infectious disease symptoms, and also recommend that parents be aware of possible contamination when children are in contact with pets and pet food. They recommend the following precautions to reduce infection:

--washing hands after contact with pets, pet food and pet bowls.
--routinely cleaning pet food bowls and feeding areas.
--keeping children younger than age 5 away from pet food and feeding areas.
--cleaning pets' food and water dishes in a separate sink or tub, not in the kitchen or bathtub.
--avoiding bathing infants in the kitchen sink.

This new study, "re-emphasizes the importance of washing your hands whenever you deal with anything from a pet, including petting him, touching his mouth or cleaning up after him, especially for children whose immune systems are very weak in comparison to adults," said Dr. Philip Tierno, clinical professor of microbiology and pathology at New York University Langone Medical Center in New York City and author of The Secret Life of Germs. "Hand washing is the single most important thing anyone can do to protect their health, and that's within everyone's purview if you teach them," Tierno said. "You can do that and not be afraid."

This report highlights the need for parents/pet owners to emphasize hygiene to their children, especially around pets and pet foods. Most people do not consider pet food a source for illnesses, this report illustrates that possibility. For more information about salmonella, visit the CDC website.

Urine Spots On Your Lawn

While we're talking about lawns, that reminds me of a question I get asked often this time of year. From time to time, someone will ask...why is my dog's urine causing these spots on my lawn? Is there something wrong with her kidneys? What can we giver her to cure it? Well if you've had a dog that urinates on your lawn, you've surely seen these spots before. There isn't necessarily anything wrong with your dog's urinary tract that is causing these spots. One of the primary components of urine is nitrogen, which is also a primary component of soil fertilizer. As you know, too much fertilizer will burn the grass; such is the case with strong urine and its effect on the grass.

If you look on the internet, you'll find information about counter-acting the acidity of urine and tons of gimmicks and products that will supposedly do that. Understand that the pH of the urine typically doesn't contribute much at all to this problem. Dog urine is normally fairly neutral or only slightly acidic, not usually acidic enough to cause problems. It is simply the nitrogen that is created from dietary protein metabolism; this is a normal process. Unless your dog is a vegetarian (wouldn't recommend that), then she will always have some nitrogen in her urine.

Notice, I say "she"...this is because typically although both male and females both have about the same amount of nitrogen in their urine, the marking habits of males tends to spread their urine in a much broader pattern, thus not concentrating it in one particular area.

So what do we do about this? Well, what I do is train my dog to urinate in a certain designated area of my lawn so that if spotting occurs it will be out of plain site. Some people suggest installing an area of pea gravel in the back of the lawn for the dog to urinate in. This is a good idea and just takes a little training to get them to use it. For me training the dog to urinate in a designated area is the simplest method; however, if you aren't dog saavy and find it difficult to retrain your dog, there are other options. Simply watering down the area, immediately after she's urinated there, will definately help tremendously. This will dilute the nitrogen and actually allow it to fertilize the grass, resulting in a nice green spot, instead of a brown one. Even if it has been a few days and the grass is starting to turn brown, watering the area will still usually turn it back green. One of these two options is probably your best bet.

If you look elsewhere, you'll see people saying things like..."give your dog tomato ketchup" and "cut back on her meat or protein". This is unnecessarily treating the dog for a problem that doesn't exist with her. In fact, you could be doing serious harm to your dog by trying this approach. So, don't go altering her diet or trying to give her home remedies and such, because most won't work and those that do can be harmful.

There are some lawn products that will help by keeping the soil moist and naturally doing the diluting for you, like this product. I think it would work well, especially if the grass is already dead in a certain area. Then there are lots of spray products that claim to work by neutralizing the nitrogen, like this product; I don't think I'd waste my money on these. They may help, but why buy neutralizers when you've already got a water hose that will do the same thing.

Point is, urine is a fertilizer; a little is great but a lot can be unsightly. So to have a nice green lawn, train your dog to urinate elsewhere or keep the spots watered down and everybody's happy, even your lawn!

The Digging Dog

Frustrated with your digging dog? Well you're not alone, it's a natural tendency for the dog to dig; especially this time of year, when it's so hot outside. The dog will dig to find a cool spot during the summer, in the winter to find a warm spot, or anytime to bury a bone or just simply out of boredom. It can be very difficult to stop the digging once your dog begins to exhibit this behavior. But if you understand the reasoning behind it, you may be able to stop or redirect the behavior to avoid total destruction to your yard.

Obviously, during the summer heat, you may be able to stop digging behavior by providing a cooler environment for the dog. Check out our talk on heat exhaustion for a few tips on summer heat. During the winter, sometimes, dogs will also dig to find warmth and avoid the wind chill. So, likewise, providing a warmer environment for him/her will help deter all those potholes.

What about the dog who just digs, no matter the weather? Try designating a digging area in your yard, maybe even a sandbox or doggy digging bed. You can introduce it to him/her by allowing your dog to watch as you bury a favorite chew toy or chew bone; then just keep his/her focus on that area by continuing to encourage digging in that area. This often works well for many dogs that are very prone to digging.

Some dogs dig just for exercise or out of boredom; guess how to cure that, give 'em what they want. Some types of dogs require more exercise, so find a game they enjoy that requires some exerciese. Playing fetch, or just going for a walk will cure these dogs.

Then, there are those dogs that dig to hunt for critters like moles and voles. This digger is a tough one, there may be no cure for this one, but keeping those pesky varmits out of your yard so there is no critters to dig for may be your best bet.

If none of these suggestions solve your digging dog's obsession, then you may need to talk to your veterinarian or a reputable dog trainer to attempt to redirect that behavior. Sometimes a little extra training may be all he/she needs to deter the digging behavior.

Relief Programs for Gulf Coast Pets

If you've been reading my blog, you know we've kinda been keeping tabs on what's going on in the gulf, in regards to the animal welfare situation. If you haven't been reading, we talked about the wildlife rescue in the gulf, pet shelters, and the turtle rescue that's ongoing. On August 1, the American Veterinary Medical Foundation (AVMF) announced that it's Animal Disaster Relief and Response Fund, which is designated to support state and national disaster relief efforts, will be initiating a program designed to help support veterinary clinics and shelters affected by struggling pet owners who are unable to provide food and medical care for their pets. The Gulf Coast Pet Relief Program, its being called, will also be funded by the AVMF's corporate partners, Hill's Pet Nutrition and Merial.

The program is being launched in response to the record number of pets filling up shelters and the increasing need of support along the Gulf coast. The AVMF reports that "the number of pets being surrendered by families in extreme financial hardship has skyrocketed since the oil spill with various shelters reporting up to four times as many animals being given up for adoption since this time last year."

The AVMF and it's partners will provide a total of $145,000 to Gulf coast area veterinary clinics and shelters that have graciously provided goods and services to their affected clients at no charge. “Pet‐related issues in the Gulf continue to escalate, which is why we called upon our partners to come together to provide relief,” said Michael Cathey, executive director of AVMF. “Our hope is to ease the pet care challenges families and shelters in the Gulf are facing by providing funding and resources for food and medical care.”

A similar campaign called the Gulf Coast Companion Animal Relief Program, led by the Louisiana SPCA and made possible by a grant from the ASPCA, has been in action for a couple of weeks now. Free basic veterinary care and pet food is being given through this program to pet owners of Plaquemines Parish, St. Bernard Parish, Terrebonne Parish and Jefferson Parish that have been affected by the spill. Proof of eligibility is required.

“A primary mission of the ASPCA is to provide support and resources to communities in need,” says Julie Morris, SVP of Community Outreach at the ASPCA. “Through the generous contributions of our donors we are pleased to join in this collaborative effort to positively impact the companion animals affected by the Gulf Coast tragedy and improve a dire situation for hundreds of families.”

If you're interested in supporting the AVMF's Gulf Coast Pet Relief program visit www.avmf.org/gulfcoastpetrelief. Additional clinics seeking assistance are encouraged to contact the AVMF for reimbursement of their services.

To volunteer or donate to the Gulf Coast Companion Animal Relief program, visit http://www.la-spca.org/gulfcoastreliefspca.org/gulfcoastrelief.

Proctor & Gamble Announces an Expansion of Pet Food Recall

Although no specific salmonella-related illnesses have been reported to the FDA, Proctor & Gamble have volunatarily recalled specific foods to prevent that possibility. The company says some foods may be contaminated with salmonella and that..."consumers who have purchased the specific dry pet foods listed should discard them. People handling dry pet food can become infected with Salmonella, especially if they have not thoroughly washed their hands after having contact with surfaces exposed to this product."

Pets with Salmonella infections may have decreased appetite, fever and abdominal pain. If left untreated, pets may be lethargic and have diarrhea or bloody diarrhea, fever and vomiting. Infected but otherwise healthy pets can be carriers and infect other animals or humans. If your pet has consumed the recalled product and has these symptoms, please contact your veterinarian.

For further information or a list of foods, click here or here. For a product refund call P&G toll-free at 877-340-8823 (Monday - Friday, 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM EST).

Salmonella infections can be serious and life-threatening both to you and your pet. If your pet has any salmonella-related symptoms, he/she should be seen by your veterinarian.

Oil Not the Only Thing to Fear on the Gulf Coast!

A news release from the Mobile County Health Department on Friday, July 30th, confirms the diagnosis of a rabid cat from the 36693 ZIP code area in Mobile, Alabama. Officials said that a man was bitten while breaking up a fight between the cat and some dogs; the Mobile County man is currently undergoing treatment for rabies.

How does this affect us in Mississippi? Well, Mobile isn't that far away and many people vacation in or around that area; so it wouldn't be that difficult for it to show up here. From the MS State Dept. of Health: Rabid raccoons from Alabama are the cause of Mississippi's greatest threat. In 1997 in Mobile County, Alabama reported the first rabid raccoon close to the Mississippi border. The state of Alabama has found six additional rabid raccoons over the past five years.

When's the last time we had a case of rabies in MS? On September 27, 2005, a previously healthy boy aged 10 years in Mississippi died from encephalitis later attributed to rabies. This report, from the CDC, summarizes the boy's case, which identified bats at the boy's home as the source of rabies. This was the only case of human rabies diagnosed in the United States in 2005 and the first case in Mississippi since 1956.

This recent feline rabies diagnosis has prompted public health officials in the Mobile area to encourage pet owners to check their pet's rabies vaccination status. I would urge you to do the same. Some rabies vaccinations are good for 1 year and some are good for 3 years. Mississippi State law requires that all dogs and cats age 12 weeks and older be vaccinated for rabies by a licensed veterinarian. Be sure your pet is up to date. If unable to obtain records of your pet's vaccination, I would recommend getting another rabies vaccination to be sure he/she is protected.

Rabies is a disease of all mammals, including man, and is fatal if not properly prevented by a series of injections. The primary means of exposure is through a bite or scratch with contaminated saliva contacting the wound. Transmission of the deadly virus also occurs if saliva contacts a mucous membrane such as the eye or mouth. Any wild animals that suddenly appear friendly, docile or approach humans should be considered suspect of being infected, and therefore avoided. Nocturnal animals such as raccoons and foxes that become active in the daytime should also be avoided. Dr. Bert Eichold, Mobile Health Officer, cautions people not to approach stray animals, wildlife and bats. “If a wild or stray animal is found around your home, it is best to contact animal control professionals,” he says.

From the CDC (Centers for Disease Control and Prevention): Human rabies is preventable with proper wound care and timely and appropriate administration of PEP (Postexposure Prophylaxis ) after exposure (CDC reference article). PEP is recommended for all persons with a bite, scratch, or mucous-membrane exposure to a bat (or other rabies suspected mammal) unless the bat tests negative for rabies. When a bat is found in close proximity to humans, it should be submitted to a public health laboratory for diagnostic testing, if it can be captured safely. If the animal is not available for testing, PEP should be administered when a strong probability exists that exposure occurred. However...once clinical signs of rabies develop, PEP is no longer effective and a rapid, progressive, and usually fatal encephalitis ensues.

This report underscores the need for increasing public awareness of the risk for rabies after contact with bats and other wildlife. Persons bitten by a potentially rabid animal should immediately 1) wash the wound thoroughly with soap and water; 2) capture the animal, if this can be done safely (avoiding direct contact with the animal) and submit it for testing; 3) report the incident to local or state public health officials; and 4) see a physician for treatment and evaluation regarding the need for PEP. Persons should not handle nor keep bats as pets and should exclude bats from living quarters, public places, and structures adjacent to the home. Recognizing the risk for rabies from any direct exposure to bats and other wildlife is critical, and persons must seek prompt medical evaluation if exposed.

Check with your veterinarian to be sure your pet's rabies vaccination is up to date; also remember it's a state law to keep your rabies certificate handy and be sure your pet wears his/her rabies tag.

FDA Warns About Pet Exposure to Evamist

The FDA has issued a warning to women using a topical estrogen hormone replacement, called Evamist, that contact with children and pets has been reported to cause adverse effects.

"Women using Evamist need to be aware of the potential risks to children who come in contact with the area of skin where this drug is applied," said Julie Beitz, M.D., director of the FDA's Office of Drug Evaluation III. "It is important that people know to keep both children and pets away from the product to minimize exposure."

FDA recommends that women using Evamist should not allow children or pets to come in contact with the area of the arm where Evamist was sprayed, not allow pets to lick or touch the arm where Evamist was sprayed. Small pets may be especially sensitive to the estrogen in Evamist. Contact a veterinarian if your pet shows signs of nipple and/or vulvar enlargement, or any other sign of illness. The FDA is recommending that if patients using Evamist know they cannot keep a child or pet from making contact with the area where the drug is sprayed, they should wear a garment that covers the area.

The FDA continues to monitor and review adverse event reports and is evaluating ways to reduce inadvertant exposures to these products.

Voting Begins for Funniest Pet Photo Contest

Over on our facebook page, voting has begun on our Funniest Pet Photo Contest. The winner will recieve one free dose of heartworm/flea prevention. Your vote counts, so check it out...http://apps.facebook.com/opinionpolls/poll.php?pid=1280762582. And don't worry if you missed out, we'll be doing another contest soon.