Crate Training

For all you new puppy owners out there, here's some insight on how to quickly and easily establish some ground rules and house train your new pup.

Proper behavior begins with the proper training and should start as soon as you bring your new pup home. If we allow bad or unacceptable behavior now, the pup will expect that same lenience in the future. It may be cute right now to have a little pup chewing and playing with your shoestrings, jumping up on you when they want to be loved, or "nibbling" on your fingers. BUT, are you still going to think those actions are "cute" when your pup is full grown! If you don't want him to do it as a mature dog, don't allow it while he is a pup! To be fair to the dog, just set those guidelines from the start and never allow those types of behaviors, then you'll never have to correct him for it later.

One of the best things you can do, for both you and your new pup, is to crate train him/her. Crate training is a simple method of housebreaking that also keeps your dog out of harm's way when you're not around. Crate training utilizes a "pet carrier", or wire/plastic cage. We just use the word "crate" or "kennel" due to the negative context that the word cage creates. We don't want to put them in a cage! We want them to feel comfortable in their kennel or crate. Dogs derive a feeling of security from being in their crates; remember dogs are pack animals that live in dens (small, cave-like dwellings), so it's their natural instict to sleep in there.

We don't expect them to live in their crate all the time. It should be his own little home; he'll rest in it, sleep in it, travel in it, and possibly even eat in it. When he is not doing those things in his crate, he will be with the rest of his "pack" - his people. Providing a crate gives a dog a safe place (as he grows and learns) from such hazards as electrical cords, poisons and owner's belongings.

Introducing the crate
In order to be successful with crate training your dog, you must be consistent and attentive to his response. You definitely want his first experience with his crate to be a pleasant one...Place the crate on the floor and allow him to explore it. Don't force him into the crate, wait until he has had a chance to thoroughly sniff the crate; then place a couple of small treats or his favorite toy just inside the crate. When he enters the crate to retrieve the treat or toy, give him lots of praise. If he starts to exit the crate, stop all praise. Repeat this process several times, tossing the treat or toy further into the crate, while leaving the crate door open.

Next, toss in a couple of small treats or favorite toy to the rear of the crate as you are saying "kennel" or "crate" (any word can be used for this command as long as it is used consistently). Once the pup enters the crate to retrieve the treat, give lots of praise and close the crate door. If, after patiently trying to lure the pup into the crate, you find he is still reluctant, wait until time for his breakfast or dinner and place his food bowl in the crate for twenty minutes with the crate door open. If he has not eaten within the twenty minutes, take up the food and try again at his next meal time. It will not hurt the pup to miss this meal. Do not give the pup any treats between meals. Again, place the food bowl in the crate for twenty minutes. The food bowl should be placed in the front of the crate until the first success. Then move the bowl to the back of the crate. Once the pup has successfully gone into the crate for his meal, you may close the door while is eating.

After the pup is comfortable going into the crate, gradually extend the length of time he is left in the crate. If the dog whines, ignore it. This behavior should soon stop. If the dog continues whining or barking, gruffly in a deep voice, give the command "Quiet" ("hush", "No Noise"), and then squirt the dog with a spray bottle filled with water. This should cause the dog to stop whining or barking. As soon as the dog stops whining or barking, tell him "Good, quiet*, good". (*Use the command word you have chosen). The dog will soon learn that he must stop whining or he will receive a correction. If none of these methods are successful in stopping the whining or barking, place the crate in a dark, quiet room and ignore it, he will soon realize that he is safe but whining and crying will get him nowhere. The worst and most common mistake people make during crate training is to allow the pup to cry, whine, or bark for a long period of time, and then "rescue him" by removing him from the crate and allowing the pup to sleep in the bed or some other area. Do not take the pup out of the crate if he is whining or barking to get out; by doing so, we are teaching the pup that if and only if he whines for 3 hours as loudly as he can, we will let him out. The barking or whining behavior is just anxiety from the fear that you will leave him in the crate indefinitely; we know that isn't so, but he doesn't, so until he learns that you WILL come back and let him out, he will be a little anxious about it. Some pups need more time to adjust than others and some will try your patience, but trust me, the whining will stop, you just have to be more stubborn than the dog. Our goal is to teach the pup to love his crate and when needed, to enter it on command and rest quietly there until we allow him out.

House training
MORNING: As soon as either you or the dog awakens in the morning, you should take him outside to eliminate. (What is it? You say he has already made a mess in his crate? That's okay, don't scold him, this will not be habit, he merely had an accident and he will soon learn to hold it as he becomes accustomed to our routine. I always say "he doesn't mind pottying in your house, but he doesn't want to potty in his house". And remember, it gets easier as the pup matures.) At the first whine or bark in the morning, you should open the crate door and say "Let's go outside" in a very matter of fact voice. Either carry a small pup (attaching a leash along the way) or leash-lead a larger pup/dog to the exact spot you want him to eliminate. Stand still in that one spot and tell him to "Spot". (This command can be any term you want to use {ie. "potty"} but must be used each and every time you want the dog to eliminate. This is very important.) Remember, this is not a walk, it is a "business trip". When the dog begins to eliminate, praise quietly (Go-o-o-d dog). Allow sufficient time for urination and defecation. Move the leash back and forth to get a non-complying dog to move if he is just standing and staring at you. It is extremely important for you to use a leash and be there to praise the dog at least for the first couple of weeks when he begins to eliminate. (After 2-3 weeks, your dog should be able to go "spot" on his own.) Do not allow the dog to turn this "business" trip into play time! After the dog has eliminated, return inside, ending the "business" trip. It is at this time that you can then take the dog back outside to go for a walk, to play or to allow him to explore a fenced yard. Don’t mix "business" with pleasure or play time; by keeping his elimination trips seperate, it clearly defines his elimination time.

DAYTIME: The dog's activities should be monitored throughout the day when you or a family member is home. When the dog sniffs, walks in circles or appears anxious, he should be leash-led to "the spot" you have decided will be his elimination area. Successful housebreaking depends on a quick response to such clues. If constant supervision (keeping BOTH eyes on him) is not possible, put him in the crate. If the dog should have an accident in the house, the area needs to be cleaned immediately with an odor eliminator or a solution of vinegar and water. This should prevent him from returning to the accident area and eliminating in the future. The dog should never be punished for soiling in the house unless you catch the dog in the act. If you do catch him in the act, tell him "NO" very firmly and immediately take him outside to "the spot".

If the dog must be left alone for a few hours, he should be taken out for elimination immediately prior to your departure, then placed in the crate. When placing the dog in the crate and as you are leaving, be very matter of fact. If the dog gets the idea that you are upset or sad because he is in the crate, you will soon see that the dog does not like the crate. Dogs "read" our emotions and body language. Show a positive attitude about crate training, visits to the vet and all other aspects of obedience training and your dog will reflect that same attitude. Having a radio playing, some safe toys and a blanket or crate pad should be sufficient to relieve most dog's anxiety of being left alone. If you have a dog who eats his toys or bedding, it is best that you leave those items out of the crate until he can be trusted. When returning home, you should, in a matter of fact manner, immediately get the dog out of the crate (again using your key words such as "Let's go outside") and leash lead the dog out to his "spot". Again, make this a "business" trip.

BEDTIME: The dog needs to go out one last time before being placed in the crate for the night. The crate should be moved into the bedroom first as the mere presence of the owner will be comforting. Some pups will be comforted by placing an old shirt or blanket, with your scent on it, in the crate. Again, if the dog should whine or bark, do not yell. Tell the dog "Quiet"* ("hush"*, "no noise*"), then, if necessary, squirt with a spray bottle. This should cause the dog to stop whining or barking. As soon as the dog stops whining or barking, tell him "good, quiet*, good". The dog should follow your example and call it a day.

Keep in mind that a pup's bladder is not as large as a mature dog's. If, during the first few weeks, your puppy wakes during the night and signals you (usually by whining or barking!) that he needs to go, drag yourself out of bed and take him out!! This will help to teach the puppy to alert you to his elimination needs. While you are outside (still half asleep and wondering why in the world you ever decided to get a dog!), try to keep a positive attitude, remembering that it won't be long until his bladder will be large enough to "make it" through the night! Once the pup has eliminated, return to your nice comfortable bed and try to get back to sleep! :) By the way, since you know the pup just eliminated outside, do not allow the dog to whine or bark to get your attention that he thinks it is time for you to get up and play! This is the perfect time to reinforce the "Quiet" command. In my experience, by 12-14 weeks of age most puppies should be able to hold their bladder through the night. So don't create a habit of taking him out at 2am!

If you've made it past the first few weeks and your pup is entering his crate, on command, lyes quitely while in the crate, and holds his bladder until released to go to his "spot" to eliminate, then congratulations, you've successfully crate trained your pup! You and he will be thankful that all your effort has paid off.